Champagne barrels line the deep, cool cellars of Charles Fourny’s estate in Vertus, France. Fourny says President Trump’s impending tariffs has taken away his trust in the U.S. market.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Rebecca Rosman for NPR
VERTUS, France — Walking through his family’s vineyard, fifth-generation Champagne-maker Charles Fourny runs his hand over Chardonnay vines planted by his grandfather more than 70 years ago. For decades, Fourny says his business has relied on a vital market: the United States.
In 2024, American consumers imported 26.9 million bottles of Champagne, making the U.S. the world’s largest Champagne export market.
Shipments to the U.S. accounted for 18% of Fourny’s exports last year. But now, he’s questioning whether he can continue to depend on the U.S.
Even with President Trump’s 90-day pause on tariffs, uncertainty about future trade policies has shaken the long-standing relationship between French Champagne producers and American buyers.
For Fourny, it’s not just about the bottom line. It’s about a trust that feels increasingly fragile.
“We do not trust the [U.S.], because we don’t know what will happen,” Fourny says. “More and more, you have the impression that you are enemies.”
In recent months, the Trump administration’s threats around European wine tariffs have shifted repeatedly, making it nearly impossible for producers and importers to plan ahead.
Charles Fourny says that while exports to the U.S. have accounted for 18% of his business in recent years, he is now looking to more “stable” markets, such as Brazil.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Rebecca Rosman for NPR
“We spoke about 200%, then 20% … perhaps tomorrow it will be 6,000%!” Fourny jokes, shaking his head.
In March, President Trump floated the idea of slapping tariffs as high as 200% on European wine imports. A few weeks later, on April 2, he scaled that proposal back to a 20% tariff. Then on April 9, the White House announced a 90-day reprieve, temporarily lowering tariffs on EU wine to 10%.
But that pause is only temporary. After the 90-day period, tariffs could rise again, possibly back to 20%, or even higher.
For Fourny, this unpredictable environment means it’s time to look beyond the U.S. market, seeking stability in places like Brazil.
“We cannot wait for a decision,” Fourny says of the impending tariffs. “We have a company to run, and we need to act in order to keep our business moving.”
A fragile ecosystem
The United States has long been the largest importer of Champagne, helping drive the industry’s growth.
But on the other side of the Atlantic, American wine importers say they’re feeling the squeeze, too.
“It’s just a horrific kind of self-inflicted wound on American companies,” says Harmon Skurnik, a New York-based importer and board member of the U.S. Wine Trade Alliance.
In a worst-case scenario, he says, wines from abroad could become more expensive and harder to find on U.S. shelves. And homegrown American wines can’t simply fill in the gap.
“We can’t buy as much American wine, not to mention the fact that these products are just not as fungible,” Skurnik says. “The French have a term called terroir, meaning the wine reflects the place it comes from. A French Chardonnay doesn’t taste anything like an American Chardonnay. These products are unique.”
American winemakers, especially those in California, are worried as well. They fear that strained distributors, weighed down by the uncertainty around tariffs, could have less ability to buy and sell domestic wine, threatening their short-term stability.
Vines grow at Charles Fourny’s estate in Vertus, France. According to Harmon Skurnik, an American wine importer, the region’s unique terroir, which includes factors such as soil, makes its wines irreplaceable.
Rebecca Rosman for NPR
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Rebecca Rosman for NPR
Not everyone is mourning the shift.
In the heart of Épernay, the Champagne region’s capital, a group of American tourists who came to sip bubbly were quick to voice support for the tariffs.
“We’re tariffing a luxury item,” says Justin Fishman, a 29-year-old from Kansas City, Kan.
“Champagne is not something everybody needs on a daily basis.”
Fishman’s friend Joseph Psyck, who is from Kentucky, agrees.
Though his own drink of choice isn’t exactly affected by tariffs.
“I’m gonna drink what I want at home, no matter what,” he says, laughing. “Bourbon.”
Back at Fourny’s estate in Vertus, he offers a bittersweet toast.
Fourny says he wishes Trump realized that all this is more than just about champagne.
“When you do that with a country, it’s not business … it’s a long-term relationship with people,” he says.
And once that’s uncorked, it may not be so easy to bottle it back up again.
